By Chris Dane German
The dream of cat-skiing in Northern BC was calling, but an unexpected complication threatened to derail the adventure. Almost two meters of snow had fallen overnight, burying Highway 99. The journey from Vancouver to Smithers is a tricky drive in the best of conditions. Steep hills, winding roads, remote, desolate stretches of highway that span hundreds of kilometers, and, of course, the notorious Duffy Mountain Pass. This huge dump of snow means that this drive would be made much more treacherous by the extremely snowy and slippery road conditions. The editor of Snowboard Canada, Edwin Poulston, picked me up en route from Vancouver.
The drive from Van to Whistler typically takes an hour and 45 minutes but it took Edwin over 5 hours to make it to my place. When he arrived more than three hours late I was worried that my cat-skiing dream may be in jeopardy. If we miss our heli bump into the lodge, that would mean no cat-skiing.
We harnessed this emotional angst and became one with the road. When you are heading out on a cat-ski trip, your tolerance for difficult driving conditions becomes very high. The worse the roads got, the more excited we became, knowing that we were likely going to score the best powder skiing conditions of our lives – as long as we made it to the heli on time…
“Get to ze choppah!”
I shouted, in my best Arnold Schwarzenegger impersonation. Snow and cold air swirled violently around us as the helicopter touched down. I could feel the liquid courage coursing through my veins; I may have dipped into the complimentary minibar at the Skeena Cat’s helicopter staging area. That mini bar was a sight for sore eyes after our harrowing 1,150 km drive. After twenty hours of driving, we were finally loading up into ze choppah. What a relief.
Skeena Cats is a helicopter-accessed cat skiing operation, located 80km from the town of Smithers, BC. Flying into the remote backcountry base camp not only saves you hours of transport time but also allows you to enjoy stunning views of the Skeena mountain range as you fly in. This 30-minute flight provides you with a preview of the terrain you will be skiing in the upcoming days.
As the helicopter descends upon the base camp, you get an aerial view of your home for the next three days. The camp consists of an enormous heated lodge tent that serves as the dining hall, kitchen, bar, and cozy hang-out zone. Surrounding the lodge tent there are around twenty heated bedroom tents, a large drying tent, a rental and tuning shop, and the shower house. The best way to describe it is “Luxury Camping” but without all the work that comes with winter camping.
We had a hunch that we were in for some fantastic skiing, given the amount of fresh powder we encountered during our 20-hour drive and the breathtaking mountain peaks we observed as we flew in. However, we were unaware of the sheer size of the area, a whopping 30,184 hectares. This makes Skeena Cats one of the largest tenures in BC. Additionally, it offers the most alpine terrain of any cat skiing operation in the world.
It is amazing how much easier it is to ski through untouched, knee-deep, dry powder compared to skiing on the chopped-up, less-than-ideal snow commonly found at ski resorts. The ski day is 8 hours long. Eat your lunch and snacks as you please while riding in the back of the cat during the 10-20 minute lift back up to the top. At Skeena Cats, a typical group will average 15 runs per day. Despite crushing huge vertical every day, you don’t get as exhausted and sore as you may think.
Most runs start in the alpine and descend into gladed tree skiing. The tree skiing here is special because there are a ton of creek gullies leading you down to the cat-road pick-up points. These gullies run down the slope and are shaped like halfpipes; slashing the walls, airing off the lip, and finding kickers is a guarantee.
Skeena Cat Skiing’s popularity is on the rise as more powder enthusiasts are discovering this hidden gem. During the 2023/2024 season, significant improvements were made to the operation, including the addition of new cat roads and ski zones, and the construction of a large tent serving as the main lodge. The number of bedroom tents was doubled, and there was an increase in the number of cats for guest transportation. Additionally, the expansion of the cat roads increased the skiable terrain, and staffing was substantially increased.
“In my opinion, one of the coolest things about Skeena Cats is that there are still many first decents waiting to be skied. In fact, our group did a first descent today!”
– Our guide, Jason
One mountain basin over from the current base camp is the next phase of the Skeena Cat’s expansion plan. This area is called the Natlan sub-range. The plan is to build a ski touring hut in the middle of this huge, horseshoe-shaped basin. Just picture waking up in a cozy backcountry hut, surrounded by big peaks and stellar alpine skiing.
This expansion will be dedicated to ski touring and splitboarding. Guests who sign up for this experience will enjoy a quiet and peaceful ski touring experience for most of the day, but they will also get a morning and late afternoon snowcat bump up to the summit. These two daily bumps will allow guests to double their downhill skiing vertical each day.
A trip with Skeena Cat Skiing is an unforgettable experience, combining the thrill of remote backcountry skiing with the comforts of a ski resort. From the helicopter ride that kicks off your trip to the untouched powder and expansive terrain you explore, every moment is a testament to the raw beauty and exhilarating experience Skeena Cat Skiing offers. The massive tenure, alpine terrain, and the prospect of scoring a first descent make this cat skiing operation perfect for all the powder hounds out there. As the operation continues to expand, it promises new incredible opportunities for ski and snowboard enthusiasts. Whether it’s the delicious food and camaraderie shared around the communal dinner table or the rush of powder snow wafting over your head, this unique operation stands out as a premier destination for backcountry skiing in British Columbia.
I’d like to propose a toast:
Here’s to wild rides and mountain vibes.
Where the lines are steep and the snow is deep.
To Skeena Cats!
Cheers
